The Amalfi we return to is not the one in the brochures. It is quieter, slower, and almost entirely lit by a single shaft of late-afternoon light off the Tyrrhenian.
Stay on the cliffside, not in the town. The walk to dinner is the dinner's most memorable course.
Order what the kitchen sends. The good restaurants here are not the ones with menus you have heard of; they are the ones with a single sea-bass on ice and a chef who decides what to do with it after you sit down.
Leave a day at the end with nothing booked. The best afternoons here are the ones the trip didn't plan for.
